Monday, December 7, 2015

Pearl Harbor Day

Today (well, technically yesterday if you are going by the actual date) is kind of a tricky date to be living in Japan.  For the most part, the Japanese and I dance around the topic of WWII.  We are more concerned with cultural exchanges and modern topics.  But every once in a while I run into a history buff or an ojiichan who has had a drink or two too many and the topic comes up. This year, with the 70th anniversary of the atomic bomb drops, increased talk of militarization within Japan, claims of revisionist versions of history, and the violence all around us, this topic has come up a little more than I feel comfortable with.  For the most part there is no bitterness or hatred.  Japanese people are peaceful and kind.  But the subject does make me uncomfortable.  Especially today.

I have only told this to one Japanese person – my grandfather was on a ship in Pearl Harbor.  Before he met my grandmother.  Before he brought his new bride to America.  Before my mother was born.  Before all of that, he stood on the deck of USS Hull, watching hell rain from the sky brought by planes with the rising sun painted bright red on their wings.  He never talked much about that day.  I guess that is the way with most soldiers.  

I can’t imagine.  Hate would be easy.  But Popsie was never one to hate.  And that is what I choose to take from this anniversary (and every other day).  Hate is easy.  Fear is easy.  Forgiveness is hard.  But it is not impossible.  Popsie forgave.  When his daughter decided to move to Tokyo with her husband in 1970, he encouraged her.  Others questioned her decision, but not the man who had seen the worst of the Japanese.    If he were alive when I decided to follow in Okasan’s footsteps in 2014, I am sure he would have showed the same enthusiasm for my choice.  Because Popsie always believed the best about people.

Today is not hard for me because I hold any anger over the events of that day so many years ago. Today is hard for me because I realize how close I came to not existing that day.  Today is hard for me because I love these people and this country, but I can’t help but be reminded that a faction of them do not feel the same way about me.  Today is hard for me because I cannot tell my Japanese friends about Popsie because I don’t have the words.  Today is hard for me because I see Japan, America, and the rest of the world falling to hate and fear.  Today is hard for me because Popsie is gone.  Each year there are fewer and fewer Pearl Harbor survivors to teach us about forgiveness.

Black burgers and other foods you can only find in Japan

Japan has a long history of assimilating things from other cultures.  From religion, to language, to technology, they cherry pick the most useful and culturally acceptable bits, rework these bits within their existing culture, and create something uniquely Japanese.  Whether this is good or bad is a discussion for another time.  But the process does create some very unique things – especially when it comes to food.

With the introduction of McDonalds in 1971 Japan took its first step on the path to becoming a fast food nation – at least in the Western view of things.  Japan has always had a taste for food stalls, deep fried dishes, and convenient food.  But McDonalds opened the door for Pizza Hut, Domino’s, and Burger King and many more.  Taco Bell even tried to conquer the Land of the Rising Sun.  It failed initially, but they are back for a second round as Japanese people discover they really like Mexican style food.  But Japan didn't just adopt these restaurants, keeping their Western style menu intact.  Instead they took one look at the dishes, kept the ones they liked, added soy sauce here, nori there, and corn on everything to create original Japanese food.

When you step up to the counter at McDonalds in Japan you can get a Big Mac and fries.  Or you could try the teriyaki burger.  You can wash it down all down with melon soda or Calpis.  Around Halloween you can dare yourself to try a black burger from McDonalds or Burger King.  Everyone gets in on the holiday themed fun in Japan.  If pizza is more your thing, Pizza Hut offers pizza with tuna, seaweed, and many more combinations that only people in Japan can really appreciate.  Or try Domino's crab gratin, garlic shrimp, or the charcoal grilled chiki-teri with onions, spinach, corn, teriyaki chicken, and mayo.

While many of these sound terrifying, they are actually quite good.  When Japan does something, they tend to do it right.  And Japanizing food is no different.  Crepes and confectionaries have reached new heights of flavor and beauty.  While Baskin Robbins still offers thirty one flavors, many of them include green tea, red beans, and other Japanese favorites.  Like the world of Toriko, our world really is in a gourmet age where people quest for yet unknown flavors.  These flavors are being realized in Japan.