Seeing Japan's honne

If I had to pick one word to describe Japan, I think it would have to be surprising.  Delightful　(okashi) certainly fits, but I think surprising is a little more accurate.  I am constantly surprised by the people, sights, and culture of this amazing country.  And it's not just the big things - the grandeur and attention to detail in the design of Osaka Castle; the simple, quite beauty of a public garden; the genuine kindness and helpful nature of everyone I have met.  These things I expected to surprise me.  But it is the simple, everyday things that truly surprise me.  Like a glimpse of the pale green, weathered copper roof of a temple nestled behind modern homes on my regular walk to work that I never saw till this morning.

Or the neighbor who makes classroom style globes who happened to have the front door of his workshop/home open while he was spraying the final, glossy coat of varnish.  Behind him there was a whole wall of shiny, blue globes.
 

Or the second grader who asked me, in perfect English, what has impressed me the most in Japan.

Now part of this is my personality - my childlike excitement about the world and the small, unique moments that make up a day.  Like when I saw this guy on my walk home -

Or the beauty and tragedy of this moment -

But I think Japan itself is surprising.  There is a belief here in honne and tatemae.  In essence, honne is one’s true feelings and desires.  These might run contrary to the morals and ideas of society, so they are only shared with those close to you.   Tatemae is the face you show in public.  This face reflects the ideas and feeling of society and maintains balance and harmony.  It aligns with society’s idea of how a person in a certain position should act and think.  Honne and tatemae do not always agree, but it is expected that tatemae will be the side of you seen by the majority of people.  But every once in a while, a little bit of honne shines through.  So each time I am surprised, it is as if I am peeking behind the tatemae mask to see a whole new Japan.  And it is beautiful.