Monday, February 2, 2015

My Japan bucket list

From the beginning I knew that seven months would never be long enough in this amazing country - even before my plane touched down.  Anata and I discussed the very real possibility of me staying another year before I left.  He wasn't super excited about it, but we both knew it was probably going to happen.  Really, seven months (working full time) is not enough time to even start to understand a foreign culture.  In the six months I have been here, I have done my best to do and experience everything I can, but there is still so much I want to do.  I was having trouble keeping track of all the exciting and exotic things I was hearing about, so I decided to make a bucket list.  Here it is, in no particular order (other than the arbitrary brainstorming order I wrote them down in).

My Japan Bucket List
-Learn taiko (or at least play it a few more times)
Last time they gave me the sticks, I bumbled my way through the Dragon Dance.  I am hoping that with a little more practice I can at least keep simple rhythm.


One, two...One, two... One, two, crap.

Your mother was a hampster and you father smelt of elderberries!
This architectural gem, only a few hours from Osaka, has been under renovation for several years.  March 27th of this year the scaffolding, tarps, and renovation equipment will finally be removed.  I can't wait!  Regarded as the finest example of traditional Japanese castle architecture, it would really be a mistake to pass it by.  I mean I paid good money to see the hollowed out shell of Doune Castle in Scotland, where scenes from Monty Python and the Holy Grail were filmed.  An exciting day trip to a fully intact and renovated Japanese castle tour seems like a no brainer.




-Hike the pilgrim trails of Koyasan
This fall, when I visited this famous Buddhist retreat in the mountains near Osaka, we took a scenic train that twisted through lush bamboo groves and along breathtaking outcrops, with the ground falling rapidly away from us.  It was a beautiful experience, but the scenery zipped by so fast.  I was a little sad.  I started to wonder about the possibility of walking up to the town and temple complex.  There was a road, after all.  In front of the Daimon Gate I found a delightful looking path that led down the mountain somewhere and an adventure started to form.  Apparently this pilgrim trail is the traditional way to approach the holy site.  It seems a perfect way to reflect on the beauty and spirituality of the world around you.


They even have handy walking sticks. 
When I took the shinkansen from Osaka to Tokyo over winter break, I saw Fujisan for the first time.  To say it was impressive is a massive understatement.  I was completely blown away by the size of it.  It towered over the surrounding plains.  Beautiful, white snow covered most of it, a stark contrast to the dull beige of the winter landscape below.  I didn't decide to hike it right away.  I decided to come back, yes, but deciding to take the plunge (or rather climb) came after a little research.  I came to the conclusion this is something I really should do before I go.

-Hiking parts of the Nakasendo Trail from Kyoto to Tokyo
Known as the mountain way, compared to Tokaido, the coast way, Nakasendo is one of the five Edo period highways that crisscrossed Japan, carrying samurai, shoguns, priests, merchants, peasants, and news from Kyoto to Tokyo throughout the reign of the Tokugawa Shogunate.  Just before I left the states, the Star Telegram ran a story about a hiking adventure along this route.  My aunt sent me a link.  I was intrigued.  It sounded like so much fun.  So informative and cultural.  It also seemed very expensive.  Yeah, it was.  However, the travel company the author went with is not the only walking tour company in Japan.  A little digging and I was able to find another company that offered a shorter version of the author's hike - half the days for half the price.  But then again, maybe I don't need a company to plan my trip at all; maybe I just need a map, some good hiking boots, and my camera.

A mix of curiosity and sadness are pulling me toward this city.  Hiroshima is a story of horror and perseverance that only two cities in the world can tell.  As the 70th anniversary of WWII approaches, I feel a need to see the A-bomb Dome, to think about events of that time, what they meant to me personally and the world, and to reflect on what world peace really means and how we might achieve it.  Not that this is the only thing I hope to find in Hiroshima.  Like any modern city, Hiroshima has an abundance of sights and sounds to enjoy.

Over winter break, I spent a couple days in Tokyo with Okasan and Otosan. Due to weather and fatigue, a lot of things we could have done were scrapped for staying warm and dry.  It was also the New Year holiday here in Japan so many places were either closed or super crowded (like every shrine!).  Watashi no ryoshin left just as the sun came out so I did a little sightseeing on my own, I didn't want to waste the hotel for the extra night, but I hadn't done my homework so I just ended up wandering around the more famous areas.  The trip ended up being a bit of a wash.  The best part was riding the Yamanote Line all the way around with Okasan and Otosan.  But even if we had been at the top of our sightseeing game, there would still be so much more to see.  Needless to say, I need to go back - but not over the New Year holiday.
I think Japan is the only country that can canonize its top three scenic views and no one will argue.  For centuries!  Seriously, the list was made in 1643.  It is something I just can't see happening in the U.S.  That said, I am very curious about what sets these three places apart from the rest of this astoundingly beautiful country.  I will just have to go and see for myself. 

Naginata is a traditional Japanese weapon that is basically a wooden pole with a short sword on the end.  It is also seen today as a traditional woman's weapon. It was practiced and used by samurai wives and daughters to protect their homes while their men were away.  So why do I want to try it?  Am I expecting a samurai invasion in South Dakota?  No (sadly).  Having tried kendo (another bucket list item), I thought it would be fun to try as many other Japanese traditional activities as possible.  While fun, kendo wasn't quite my cup of tea.  Something, something, hitting someone in the head while they are looking right at you, something.  Naginata probably won't be either, but it is something to try once.  Now I just need to find out where!




Like naginata, kyudo is a Japanese martial art.  Specifically, it is Japanese archery.  I figure if I am trying one weapon class, I might as well try them all.  Kind of like a character gaining basic skills in all of the fighting classes.  I will never be a master, I know myself well enough to know I don't have the dedication, but I can at least try it for an afternoon.  Although, if my afternoon at Osakajo with Okasan and Otosan is any indication, I might actually have a tiny bit of archery skill.






 Let's face it, I am a fourteen year old boy at heart.  I still love playing ninjas, pirates, and samurai.  Granted, I play these more in my head these days (or in my stories), but I never really grew out of my shonen phase.  Actually, my discovery of anime has made the problem worse.  So when I heard about a theme park called Edo Wonderland, where you get to dress up as a ninja, samurai, or geisha, it was on my bucket faster than Luffy could devour a plate of meat.  Now I just need to decide if I want to be a ninja or a samurai!

I have two big reasons for wanting to go to Okinawa. Reason one; I want to see what is left of the Expo 75 Park Otosan helped work on when he lived in Tokyo in the 70's. Second, the sand is made of tiny shells. How freaking cool is that! Shells! If I needed any more reasons, there are the beautiful beaches, amazing water, and interesting food. But seriously, shell sand.

Known for beer and being freaking cold, Sapporo has managed to combine these two things to create an awesome event.  Well, not really combine, but if you go there for the snow festival, you will probably end up drinking (if nothing more than to warm up in a bar).  The annual snow festival is supposed to be something spectacular, but there is also a lot to see and do during the summer.  From what I hear, Hokkaido is unlike the rest of Japan. With almost a rural feel, this northern island very different from its populous brethren. Known for pristine natural beauty and a unique native culture (the Ainu), Hokkaido, and its capital, Sapporo, seems like a necessary adventure before I return to the states.

-Various Japanese theater styles
Japan has several unique theater styles that developed over the centuries.  Most well-known, outside the country, is kabuki.  But there are also Noh (the one with the masks) and Bunraku (performed with puppets).  There is also Kyogen, a form that developed alongside Noh and used to be acted as comic relief between Noh plays.  These are the national theater arts.  In my area there is also the Takarazuka Review, an all-female opera group that puts on new and traditional opera performances throughout the year.  It might be a while before I am brave enough to attend the theater (because of the language barrier), but as someone that had been on and behind the stage, I think it would be amazing to see how other countries do it.

Wisteria is one of my favorite flowers.  This park has a wisteria vine that is almost one hundred and fifty years old.  Walking under the blooms, almost drowning in their sweet scent, seems like a magical memory.

More flowers!  This park near Tokyo is famous for the late spring bloom of Nemophelia, a delicate sky blue flower.  There are literally fields of these flowers.  The park offers amazing blooms all year, but this event in late April, early May looks truly enchanting.

I didn't have a say in where my company placed me.  I got very, very lucky to be placed in Osaka.  Even more so for the fact that one of the big sumo tournaments takes place here in March.  I will have plenty of opportunities to take in Japan's national sport.

-Traditional arts and crafts
Like theater styles, Japan has a wealth of traditional arts and crafts.  Before I go, I would like to try my hand at calligraphy, sumie (ink wash painting), weaving, and whatever else I can find to try. It may not turn out well, but I think trying to work with native materials to create native art would be an amazing and challenging experience.

-Staying at a ryokan
As people walked along the Nakasendo Road during the Edo period, they would spend the night at inns called ryokan.  Some of these inns can still be found today.  No, seriously, they are still in operation.  The Hoshi Ryokan was recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest hotel in 1994 (before the title was given to another Japanese hotel that opened 12 years earlier).  Ryokans are a popular option for accommodation in many parts of Japan.  It can be hard to find one in larger cities where sky scraper hotels dominate, but there are plenty in less populous areas.  Ryokans offer public baths, traditional futon style sleeping, and usually a breakfast feast of traditional Japanese foods.  Think less like a hotel and more like a spa.
 
-Polar bearing it at a hot spring in winter
I might be crazy, but I think it would be super fun to soak in a pool of hot water while snow fell around me (and Osake floated on a little try beside me).  Even better, with monkeys!  Winter is a terrible season no matter what country you are in.  Taking a hot soak in the snow would make it totemo omoshiroi!

-Various cultural events throughout the year
This post would take forever if I described all of the fascinating and exciting events that happened across Japan throughout the year.  From sakura blossom parties in the spring to harvest festivals in the fall, there is always some kind of celebration.  A few of the bigger ones I plan to attend in the upcoming year are Hanami (cherry blossom viewing), Hanabi (summer firework viewing), and Obon.  I also want to try fishing (the weather didn't cooperate for my December trip) and spend time with my friends this summer beating watermelons with sticks on the beach.

This list could go on and on.  With each adventure, it gets longer instead of shorter as I find more and more things I want to experience.  I know I won't be able to do everything I want to in the short time I am here.  All I can do is try my best and leave knowing I did as much as I could.  I won't leave with regrets, I will have done all my schedule, wallet, and body would allow, but I will leave with many reasons to return.  

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