Wednesday, December 21, 2016

Itadakimasu - American Edition

Anata swears that I am not his wife.  I am some doppelganger or changeling that has come back in her place.  This is especially true when it comes to food.

Before I left for Japan, I was a very picky eater.  I hated vegetables.  Anata had to almost trick me into eating them.  I had no trouble with lettuce, but I hated cabbage and wouldn’t even let it in the house.  As a northern boy, this made him very sad.  I had the same aversion to cucumbers, radishes, and most root vegetables.  Really, the only vegetables I liked were lettuce, tomato, carrots, potatoes, broccoli, green beans, and onions (and that was only recently).  I would grudgingly eat some other vegetables, like beets or kohlrabi, but it took a lot of coaxing. 

I was equally picky with the prepared foods.  I liked foods that were slightly outside my childhood staples, but I wasn’t one to travel too far off the beaten culinary path.  He was able to get me to experiment with Greek, Indian, and Middle Eastern foods before I left, but even that tended to end in a fight.  I was a by the recipe cook.  He was not.  It made things tense. 

Fast forward two years.  Things are completely different.  Living in Japan forced me out of my food comfort zone.  When you can’t read the menu, you just have to eat what comes out.  I never did develop a taste for daikon, but I found that I could handle, and actually came to enjoy just about everything else.  There were parts of animals I had never heard of.  Raw fish I had never seen.  Vegetables that were not much to look at, but tasted great when they were cooked.  I made a point to try everything once, and I usually went back for seconds.  I even discovered I liked things like cabbage and cucumbers that I could never stand in the U.S.

Anata is excited and frightened by this dietary change.  There is almost always cabbage in the house now.  We had a garden full of Asian vegetables, including cucumbers, that I happily munched on all summer and fall.  I have tried to recreate my favorite Japanese dishes for him with great success, even when I don’t use a recipe at all.  I really am like a different person when it comes to food.

Samurai Pie
Kimchi Nabe
Kabocha Pudding
Ramen from Scratch
Omurisu

Ochazuke

Steak Ssam
Sukiyaki

Hiyashi Chuka
Zaru Soba
Anata is taking it well.  It has made the transition to a gluten-free diet, which he needs for health reasons, easier.  Sometimes he makes a game out of having me try things I hated to see if there is any change.  But that hasn’t always worked out in his favor. He wasn’t pleased when we found out I like eggnog this winter.  That had always been his thing.  He was not too thrilled to share.

If you had told me two years ago that I would be eating ketchup fried rice covered in egg and mayo, I would have called you crazy.  If you had told me that my fridge would be stuffed with leeks, cabbage, carrots, and eggplant, I would have shaken my head in denial.  But it happened.  Maybe I am a doppelganger.  Or a clone.  Imprinted with the memories of the old me, but with taste buds. 

Thursday, December 8, 2016

The death that shocks me the most is the death of trees.  I find it much easier to accept the death of animals, pets, and people.  The death of people and animals close to me affects me much more than the loss of a tree, but there is something so tragic in the death of a tree.  I find it deeply unnerving. 

Otosan is a landscape architect, so growing up our yard was full of beautiful trees.  There was the American Elm in the middle of the front yard.  It had a hole in it that bled and was terrifying to me as a child.  Roaches lived there.  And who knew what else.  We had to stand on tiptoe to reach the hole, so it naturally became the ultimate dare in any childhood test of courage.  Then there was the mulberry that grew between our house and the neighbors to the north.  Easy to climb – that one was our escape from summer heat.  The bark was always cool – even on the hottest Texas day.  I always remember the waxy green leaves being bigger than they were.  Must just be because I was smaller.  On the opposite side, between our house and the southern neighbors was one of my favorite trees – a Japanese Black Pine that Otosan had been grooming since before I was born.  The needles were so thick that they were a solid surface.  Otosan spent days pruning it every year, thinning the needles by hand until his fingers were black as tar.  One year we found a nest of morning doves nestled back near the trunk.  We watched them grow and fly away.  Two sprawling Yaupon Hollys shaded the front porch.  Every winter the branches almost broke under the weight of all the bright red berries.  We waited patiently every year for the arrival of the Wax Wings that came and stripped the trees bare in just a few days.  There was a fence just below the Yaupons, for privacy.  Every Halloween picture growing up has Imōto and me sitting on that fence with our pumpkins.  And in front of my bedroom window, a Texas Pistachio with small, fern-like leaves where we buried our pet hamster when I was in 5th grade. 

Out back there were the trees with nice straight, thin branches perfect for making bows and arrows out of.  Easy to climb, too.  The great big Pecan tree left over from when the area was a Pecan orchard.  Our first dog used to chase squirrels around it, and Anata and I hung purple lanterns in it for our wedding reception.  There was the clump of Sweet Gums that we built the most well-enforced treehouse in.  We were never really good at carpentry – I think there ended up being more nails than wood.  There was the Weeping River Birch, and the Japanese Red Maple tucked away in the corner by the hose.  Otosan created a tiny moss and rock garden under it, his personal Japanese garden. 

Inside, we had two potted trees – one in the front window and one in Otosan’s office at the back of the house.  They would switch places from time to time.  One was a Fiddle-leaf Ficus.  I don’t remember the species of the other one, only that it had a beige bark, sprawling, spidery roots, and small, diamond-shaped leaves that were the brightest spring green.  Imōto and I liked to eat the dirt out of their pots, much to Otosan’s dismay.  We also used the trees as jungles for our toys and a place for our favorite rocks collected on our adventures. 

And then there were the bonsai.  In Japan, Otosan had picked up the tedious and beautiful art of bonsai.  The Black Pine by the driveway was bonsai on a large scale, but he also had also used native plants to create smaller bonsai.  At worksites, he would collect moss and tiny trees.  He would sit on the porch for hours sculpting and pruning.  We had a shelf of blue, brown, footed, and glazed pots in the garage.  I don’t think I saw a terracotta pot till I was well into elementary school.

But now, despite Otosan’s best efforts, almost all of those trees are gone.  The Mulberry was the first to go.  I was too young to understand why.  We played Robin Hood in Sherwood Forest in the branches before they were hauled off.  Then the Elm and the skinny trees out back.  The Sweet Gums were in the way of the power lines.  Inside, the tree with the diamond leaves went first, then the Ficus after.  The River Birch came down while I was in college.  Finally, and most tragically, the Black Pine struggled for a few years of drought and record heat before Otosan finally had to admit defeat. 

I remember crying at the picture Okasan sent me of the now empty spot.  Not just because that tree had been such an important part of my life till that point, but because it made my father human.  He couldn’t save it.  Until then, he had always had a miracle green thumb.  I couldn’t keep a cactus alive, but he was a gardening god.  Until that day. 

The only trees left from my childhood are the Japanese Red Maple, the Yaupon Holly out front, the Pistachio in front of my bedroom window that has tripled in size, and the faithful Pecan.  A few of the bonsai are still around, but many have been replaced with new specimens over the years. 

Driving up to my childhood home, I am struck by vastly different trees that greet me.  First, it was just our yard, but now trees all along the block – touchstones of my childhood – are gone forever.  New trees have taken their place and flourished, but the trees I played under, climbed, and loved are gone.

I guess I always thought of trees as immortal.  I toured the bonsai nurseries in Omiya with Okasan on one of her last trips to Japan.  Though they were still houseplant size, many of the trees were hundreds of years old.  The National Arboretum has a 390-year-old pine that survived Hiroshima. 
In Japan, ancient trees are everywhere!  Every shrine, even the tiny one near my house in Osaka, had a tree over 400 years old.  That is older than the United States!  The larger shrines had even older trees.  And deep in the forest, I am sure there are trees that have seen the world change over a thousand years. 

While civilization grew up around them, these trees remained.  Their roots dug deeper and deeper into the soil.  Their branches reached high and higher into the sky.  There is a reason that many pagan beliefs use trees as a symbol of the divine.  It represents our connection to the past and the future, creates a bridge between the gods and us, or remains steadfast while families grow and change around it. 

So for me, the death of a tree is something shocking.  Humans and animals are fragile.  Our lifespans are sadly short.  But trees are supposed to be immortal.

Every year I offer to buy Otosan a new tree – whatever kind he wants – but he always turns me down.  Last time I was home, he mentioned that he might have to cut down the Yaupon Hollys out front and that the Red Maple was struggling.  It hurt when he said that.  I understand now that trees die, and sometimes you can’t save them, that Otosan has done all he could to keep them alive this long in an alien environment, but the child in me is still deeply hurt by the thought of losing them.  They are a part of me.  They watched me grow.  They inspired me and challenged me.  Their roots are my roots.  I accept that the animals and people I love will pass out of my life, but the trees are supposed to be immortal.

Monday, November 28, 2016

私は感謝しています

For the first time in two years, I will get to have turkey, mashed potatoes, sweet potato casserole, more mashed potatoes, and all of my Thanksgiving favorites.  I am so excited!


American Thanksgiving
It won’t surprise anyone that Japan doesn’t celebrate Thanksgiving.  It seems to be only us and Canada.  So for two years, I went without the family and the fixings that made Thanksgiving one of my favorite holidays. 

But even without the traditional trappings, there was still plenty to be thankful for.  American Thanksgiving happened to fall right around the anniversary of Otose opening her acupuncture practice.  For her, the anniversary was a reason for celebration and giving thanks.  So, every year, she hosted a dinner party, invited all her friends and neighbors, and gave thanks for all the blessings that year had brought.  That is how I spent my first Thanksgiving in Japan – sharing nabe with new friends and celebrating the woman who had brought us all together.   

Japanese Thanksgiving

I don’t know if Otose knows how much that meant to me. How much all the things she did for me meant.  I have told her many times that I was only able to stay in Japan because of the support and friendship I found living next door to her.  I don’t know if she believes me.  Or maybe it is that Japanese modesty that made her shrug it off.   

As I get ready for this year’s Thanksgiving celebrations, I can’t help but think back on those two, special Japanese Thanksgivings.  The food was of course very different (though Anata has already asked if we could have the kabocha pudding I made for my first holiday in Japan), but I will still be surrounded by people I love.  I will also be missing those friends who can’t be there.  I can’t imagine what Otose would think of a turkey! 

I have been blessed with many amazing people in my life.  Through them I have grown, learned, laughed, and loved.  Sadly, I can never keep all of them as close to me as I would like.  Maybe one day I will have a chance to gather all of these wonderful people up in one large room and tell each of them how much they mean to me.  How glad I am that fate threw us together, even if it was only for a short time.  And how thankful I am for the lasting impressions they have made on my life.

私は本当に感謝しています.

Wednesday, November 16, 2016

Keeping in touch

Despite advances in technology, I have always been terrible at keeping in touch with people.  When I was in college, and Facebook came out, I was excited that at least now I had a way to marginally keep up with people I cared about.  As more and more people joined, I found more and more friends from my past.  When I made new friends in Japan, we immediately connected on Facebook and Line.  As those friends drifted away – to new cities or returned home – we promised to stay in touch.  The same way all of those junior high yearbook messages promised to stay in touch.

It isn’t that I don’t care.  But it is more I don’t know how. 

With Facebook, Line, Skype, and all the other amazing advances in technology, keeping in touch should be the easiest thing in the world.  Time zones and language barriers have been all but erased!  All I need are a few seconds and an internet connection.  I don’t even have to write in full paragraphs.  I have access to all of these amazing tools, as do my friends, but for some reason, we don’t really know how to use them.

When do you keep in touch?  It seems insincere to do it just when something important happens, like a birthday.  But it can be awkward just to text, “hey, how are you?  I was thinking about you.”  It is nice that Facebook lets you share things like recipes or funny pictures that can make the “I was just thinking about you,” seem less weird, but there is still a little awkward turtle going on when you hit send and wait for a reply (especially when you see that they have read it and just haven’t responded).  In person, it just seemed like the conversation flowed, it was natural.  But now you have to have an excuse to make contact.  On top of that, you are living in different time zones, you are doing different things, you are all getting on with your lives and enjoying the here and now.  It is intimidating – or, at least for me it is.

But once you get past the awkwardness, it can also be rewarding.  Despite the fact that you are not as much a part of that person’s immediate life, you are still a part of their past.  The conversations will change, of course; they will be more a recap of what is going on in each other’s lives and probably lose some of their depth, but I am learning that keeping those connections is important. 

Friendships aren’t just about a particular moment in your life.  They are about people that burrow into your heart while you are close together and stay there even after you drift apart.  You still care about what they are doing, even if it doesn’t involve you.  Friendships take work.  That is the hardest part.  Finding the energy and courage to say, “hey, how are you?  I was just thinking about you.” 

I am still not very good at it.  Sometimes life gets in the way.  If you don’t hear from me, don’t feel bad.  I am still thinking of you, and I am working on it.  

Saturday, October 1, 2016

Gaijin behaving badly

Before I left, Otosan gave me the usual speech – “You are representing the family.  Don’t do anything embarrassing.”  What any southern child hears every time they leave the nest for parts unknown.  For the most part, I think I managed pretty well.  There were a few times I made a fool of myself that weren’t really my fault.  I was kind of thrown into the deep end of a culture I didn’t know a whole lot about.  I read the etiquette books and did my best, but I still made mistakes.  Like the white shirt episode at my first Danjiri (it was my only white shirt, and I didn’t realize anything below the collarbone was considered indecent) or any of the times Japanese men got the wrong impression because I am just a friendly person who will strike up a conversation with almost anyone.  There were times I didn’t speak up or spoke up too much.  Times I gave presents when I shouldn't have or didn’t give them when I should.  Times I offered to help with a task that was only for students or didn’t realize I was supposed to be helping staff with another task.  Times I addressed people in a less polite manner than I should have (but hey, at least I addressed them in Japanese).  I was louder than I should have been.  I touched people more than I should have.  I made a lot of mistakes.  But for the most part, my Japanese friends, and really every Japanese person I met, was so kind and understanding that these small infractions were glossed over or ignored.  Some people would try to correct my bad behavior, and I am thankful for that.  Mostly I tried my best and Japan accepted my minor social gaffes. 

However, there were a couple of times I really messed up, and I have no excuse.  申し訳ございませんでしThe memory of one such instance still haunts me.  I was coming home after a night out on the town in Namba.  Obviously, I was pretty tired after staying out all night, but that is still no excuse for what happened next.  Usually, I would take the Nankai line from Namba straight to Kinokawa station, my stop.  But I was traveling with a friend this particular morning, and we decided to take the train from Tennoji to Wakayama.  We used google to find the train we needed, but were having some trouble finding which particular platform that train left from.  We knew what time it departed, but since Tennoji is a very large station, there were several trains that took off at the same time.  Our train also split with some cars going to Kansai Airport and some continuing to Wakayama.  We just weren’t finding it.  So, we decided to ask an employee.  Just inside the front gate, we found a station agent with a smile on her face and English pinned to her chest.    

“Excuse me.  What track for this train?”  I held my phone up for her, pointing to the train name and departure time. 
“Where are you going?”
“Wakayama.”
“The trains for Wakayama depart from platforms 3, 5, and 11.”
Okay.  Not exactly the answer I expected.  I looked at my phone again and pointed to the specific train I wanted.  “This train.  What track?”
“The trains from Wakayama depart from platforms 3, 5, and 11.”
I stared at the woman.  I tried again.  I got the same answer.  Our train was arriving soon, and I still didn’t know which platform.  I was losing my patience.
“Kono densha wa nani bango desu ka?”  It wasn’t good Japanese, but maybe…
“The trains for Wakayama depart from platforms 3, 5, and 11.”  The edge of uncertainty had been building in her voice with each repetition.  Just as I am sure the agitation was building in mine. 

Now this type of thing had happened before, many, many times.  Communication was a constant struggle.  Usually, I would just smile, say thank you, then find someone else to help me if I couldn’t manage to understand.  But for some reason, that morning I couldn’t do it.  Instead, I threw my hand in the air and walked away with a growl.

We did manage to make our train.  It left from platform 5.  We managed to score a front corner with two sets of seats facing each other.  We took all four and closed our eyes.  But Karma caught up with us pretty quickly.  High winds stopped the train well before our intended destination.  Still groggy, we were hustled off onto the platform with no idea what was going on.  We spent an hour in limbo trying to figure out when the next train would come or how we could get to the Nankai line.  Ironically, there was no information broadcast in English over the loudspeaker and no employees to ask for help. 

A journey that should only have taken us an hour ended up taking three.  I realize that the delays were a mere coincidence due to natural phenomena, but I can’t help feel that they were also divine retribution for my deplorable behavior. 

I am ashamed at how I treated that woman.  On many of my adventures I came across gaijin behaving badly and looked down my nose at them.  But the instant I threw up my hand and stormed off, I was worse than any of them. 

If I could, I would beg that woman for forgiveness.  I would also apologize to all my Japanese friends who were so patient with me as I struggled to communicate.  I learned a valuable lesson that day about who I really was.  I wasn’t a very nice person.  It was just a single moment, a really bad morning, but that is the only moment that woman and I will ever share.  She didn’t know my circumstances, she was only doing her job, and she won’t ever know how sorry I am for my behavior. 

Otosan, I let you down that day, and I am sorry.  I let myself down, too.  And gaijin.  It only takes a single moment of bad behavior to ruin everything.  

Sunday, September 25, 2016

At the threshold

For a while I have struggled to sit down and write for this blog.  When I was still in Japan I put off a lot of topics because I just didn’t have the time to research them and present my ideas in the logical and intelligent way I wanted to.  I wanted to write about social issues I saw, but I felt that I owed it to everyone to make sure I backed up my opinions with evidence and research.  I wanted to talk about observations I made in art and culture, but needed to know more about my subjects before I started acting like an expert.  I said that I would have the time when I got home to really put in the background work to talk about topics like art, popular culture, school systems, suicide, sexism, and other hot button topics.  That hasn’t exactly happened. 

While I still want to write about these topics, I still haven’t found the time to do the research.  Life didn’t just stop when I came home.  I am not sure why I thought it would.  I wasn’t constantly traveling like I had been in Japan.  I didn’t have a regular 9-5 job.  But I also didn’t have the daily inspiration and interactions that fueled my desire to discuss these topics with the world.  It seems like the fire dies a little more each day as Japan slips further and further from my immediate existence.  I have started writing for a local newspaper which monopolizes a lot of my research and writing time.  I have also started picking at my fiction writing – something that gathered dust on the shelves in Japan as Okashi and my adventures took up most of my time. 

If I am not careful, I realize that Okashi might end up abandoned, like many of my previous projects.  I don’t want that.  Japan had such an amazing impact on my life that I would hate to let it slip away.  There is still so much to explore, so much to learn, and so much to reconcile within myself about my time there. 

Going forward, I will try and make more of an effort to write down my reflections before they are too faded in my memory.  I might have to sacrifice some of the research I wanted to do in order to just publish a piece.  I might have to get up a little earlier or spend a little more time in front of the computer when I really don’t want to.  I might have to make the sacrifices I didn’t want to make when I was actually in Japan.  My time in Japan has ended and it is time finish this chapter of my life.  A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step, but it also has to end with one. 

Now it is time to reflect and apply the things I learned on that journey.  As I finish up the reflections I started in Japan and do the research I need to write some of the more controversial pieces, Okashi will begin to change.  It will be more about the continuing influence of Japan in my life. I have a lot of work to do before I get there, but I am excited to see where this new adventure will take me! 

More than any other point in my life I feel like I am standing at a great threshold.  The next step leads to something amazing.  I can feel it.

Monday, August 15, 2016

Coming Full Circle

Disclaimer: This is in no way my last entry; I still have many posts to write.  But August 15th marks two years since I stepped off the plane into the blazing heat of Osaka and began my journey.  I felt I needed to mark the occasion.  So don’t worry 皆さん, Okashi will continue, hopefully for many years, but here is something I have been working on for this momentous occasion.

Saying さようなら to Japan was a long process.  There were goodbyes at my schools, goodbyes with friends, and goodbyes to places that had come to mean a lot to me in my time there.  But it was my goodbye to Osaka that was the hardest and also the best. 

Okasan came to help me move.  I had been sending stuff home over the past few months, but it was amazing the amount of things I had collected in just under two years.  Like amazing.  I needed her help.  I was super busy with all the trips I wanted to squeeze into my last few months, making sure to say goodbye to everyone, and the massive amounts of paperwork required to leave the country, so I left the travel plans up to her.  She sent me the address of our hotel in Osaka, but I honestly didn’t look at it until we were on the train, pulling away from Kinokawa Eki.  As I stared at the location on Google Maps through teary eyes, I couldn’t help but laugh.  Somehow she had picked a place that was in the same area as the hotel I stayed at when I first arrived.
So.Much.Stuff!

We caught a taxi from  難波駅 because we just had so much luggage.  As we twisted and turned through the Osaka streets, things became more and more familiar.  I hadn’t been back to this part of town since I finished with training.  We drove past the laundry I had used with friends not even a week into my journey.  It was August then and none of us were ready for the heat and humidity.  We were going through several changes of clothes a day just to stay dry.  Next to it was the izakaiya where I had my first kakigori.  I didn’t know what it was then.  Wouldn’t know for quite a while, actually.  I just know it was the best thing ever that night.  We were dripping sweat and the laundry was even hotter than outside.

Okasan and I made it to the hotel and got checked in.  The weather was warm, it was almost May, but still nothing compared to the stifling, humid mess my first week.  We had dinner plans with Sunny in the northern part of town.  As we headed out for the evening, we moved down the familiar route I had taken from my hotel to training every day for a week.   We passed the grocery where I had died a little realizing how expensive fruit was in Japan.  And that what I considered bacon didn’t really exist here.  I had spent an hour walking up and down aisles, amazed and concerned by all the new products that I couldn’t identify or read the labels for.  I had worried how I would afford to eat more than just ramen and water.   Or how I would ever figure out exactly what everything was.

We kept walking, past the izakaiya where I had my first drink of sake.  I had been so confused when they served it in a box!  This is where I learned about seating fees and that you pay for the little snacks they bring to your table.  Past the building that my company had been in before moving to 梅田.  I would have turned on this street to go to the municipal building I spent my first week in the basement of for training.  Memories with every step. 

Passing over the river, we left the tiny area that had been my home and first introduction to Japan.  I had been so scared that first week; unable to navigate streets, subways, or buses.  I had survived in an area of only a few square blocks, branching out just far enough to reach a mall and Osaka-jo.  At the time, those few blocks had seemed like a whole world and that if I ventured further, I would lose myself.  I couldn’t imagine taking off to Namba every night like some of my new coworkers.  It was too far!  I would never make it back!  But as Okasan and I hopped on the subway and headed north, I realized how much smaller Osaka seemed now.  And how familiar.  When had I stopped being scared of taking a new train?

Ahhhhhh!  This is the point
where I almost turned around
to go back home.
I was almost to the hotel.
Just a few more steps.
After a fabulous tempura dinner with Okasan and Sunny, I was eager to get back to 谷町四丁目 and relive those first few days a little more.  I wanted to show Sunny the steps up from the subway that nearly broke me just hours after stepping off the plane – where a kind Japanese woman had offered to help a tired, overweight, sweaty, disgusting gaijin carry her super heavy suitcase even though the case probably weighed as much as her.  I wanted to share a drink with my new friends at my first watering hole, celebrating the woman I had become in such a short time.  I wanted to soak it all in – relive the amazement, fear, and confusion that came with the start of this crazy journey.  Sunny and Brook hadn’t known me then – we wouldn’t meet for another year or so – so it was fun to tell them about the me who had gawked, cried, cursed, and began to settle into Japanese life right on these very streets. 


The APA Hotel.
My first home in Japan
As I spent the next couple days in that Osaka neighborhood, walking past important places from my past – the place where I first met Otose, where I had my first taste of natto, my first Japanese McDonalds, my first experience with being caught without a during the rainy season and being soaked to the skin – and realizing the metamorphosis I had made, made leaving Japan much easier.  It was still hard to say goodbye to my friends and the city that had felt so much like home.  There was a lot I hadn’t accomplished.  But as I walked past the APA Hotel, I realized just how much I had.  I still couldn’t read many of the labels in the supermarket, but I knew what most things were and how to cook with them.  My Japanese skills hadn’t improved as much as I would have hoped, but I had learned to communicate in a more universal language of humanity.  My linguistic challenges helped broaden my empathy for those who struggle with speaking and reading (regardless of their native language).  I learned to live with nature, rather than fight against it and try and bend it to my will.  I found a deep appreciation of another culture, but did not lose myself in the process.  Instead I gained a better understanding of myself and my own culture through the Japanese lens. 


My time in Japan changed me, enhancing who I was rather than remaking me altogether.  Much the same way the Japanese cherry-pick ideas from other cultures and create something uniquely Japanese, I took many things from my experiences in Japan and used them to create a new me.  Coming back to the very beginning, walking the streets of that tiny, scary world of my arrival, it was clear how far this journey had taken me – well more than a thousand miles from the woman who stepped onto that plane in Bismarck two years ago.