Have it your way? Not in Japan.

When Anata came to visit, there was a lot to plan.  Hotels needed to be books.  Train and ferry schedules checked.  Destinations to be researched.  An itinerary to pack with amazing adventures.  But there was also one, not very fun thing to worry about.  Anata has Celiac Disease.  This means he cannot eat (or in some cases be around) anything that contains gluten.  So obviously no bread, right?  But gluten is found in an astounding number of non-bread things.  At first we thought it would be easy to stay gluten free in Japan.  It is the land of rice after all.  But it turns out even soy sauce can have gluten in it.  As the trip approached, we were looking at two weeks of sushi (most kind, but not his favorite, eel), mochi, green tea, and white rice.  We couldn’t share any of my favorite foods!  No ramen, no okonomiyaki, no yakisoba or takoyaki.  I wish I could say I approached this with grace, understanding, and support, but I still have some growing to do in that department.  Instead, I was frustrated and angry.  We managed to make it through the trip with only a couple flare ups, but meal time was tense to say the least.

The main reason there was so much trepidation was the language issue.  I have no idea what the Japanese word for gluten is.  Even if I did, there was a good chance the poor server I asked would have no idea how to answer.  Not because of language, but because they just didn’t know if the dish we were pointing at on the menu used gluten.  Celiacs isn’t a thing in Japan.  Food allergies in general don’t seem to exist.  There is some issue with lactose intolerance, but for the most part Japanese people can eat anything.  So when you come in with you gaijin food allergies, they really don’t know what to do.  (They also don’t really understand vegetarians, vegans, and other special diets). 

Japanese menus don’t offer gluten free options, but they also don’t really have a system for special orders of any kind.  In Japan, you get what is on the menu.  There are no substitutions.  You can sometimes add things, like tomato or mustard on a burger, but even that is rare.  It is a system designed for efficiency.  The cook only has to master a single preparation technique for each dish.  While this works great for almost everyone, it can make eating out difficult for someone with food issues.  Thankfully, Japanese restaurants usually offer a diverse menu and Anata was able t find something that probably didn’t have gluten in it, fingers crossed.

Aside from the obvious celiac issue, I actually like the Japanese system.  I enjoy getting my burger the way I want it – mustard, mayo, cheese, lettuce, and tomato – but I feel Americans may have taken the concept a bit too far.  When someone has enough substitutions and 86s to fill a novel, everyone is going to have a bad dining experience.  The waitress who has to write it all down then type it in.  The cook who has to process all the information, prepare the dish to spec, and juggle a dozen other orders already in the works.  And ultimately the customer who gets almost irrationally upset when their order is wrong.  I am guilty of this.  Oh so guilty.  I once threw a plate of chili cheese fries against my kitchen wall when Anata brought them home from the burger place down the street.  They had used nacho cheese instead of shredded cheese, something I had specifically told him to order.  There was a lot more going on at the time, but it was still a huge overreaction.  We have come to feel that special orders are a right.  The roots of freedom and independence are deep in the American psyche and this is just another manifestation.  But special orders are really a privilege.  A privilege that most other countries don’t indulge their diners with.

So while Japan’s strict dining rules can be a hassle for those with special dietary needs, I feel it is beneficial for everyone else.  You are forced to try new things.  You are also forced to acknowledge the kindness of others who are willing to cook anything for you, you lazy bum.  With an influx of Westerners and a great understanding of food allergies, Japan is slowly changing to offer vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free menu options.  They are also marking which allergens are present (if you read kanji).  This is great news for people like Anata who want to enjoy this beautiful country without experiencing a hospital visit.  But I hope Japan never gets to the acceptance of special orders.  Don’t let me have it my way, Japan.