Monday, November 16, 2015

Watching rice grow

When I moved to Wakayama the rice fields were empty.  Vast areas of winter browned grasses and weeds that turned mottled green as spring slowly worked its warmth into the soil. 

And then the grass and weeds were chopped and tilled, revealing rich brown soil.  Then came the flooding.  The cocoa powder soil was saturated.  The water stood several inches deep.  When the water cleared you could see snails sliding across the surface of a mud like dark fudge.  The fields stood flooded for quite a while, some were even re-flooded, until it seemed they were meant for mosquito breeding rather than rice growing.

But in early summer the green shoots started to appear.  Neat rows of the most vibrant green in strange geometric patterns to maximize space in fields that weren’t perfectly square.  I happened to see the machine used to plant the rice.  It was a strange, hunched looking insect that pulled the seedlings from a square patch on its back with its many mandibles and shoved them into the soft mud behind itself.  I was fascinated as I watched it crawl through the flooded field on tall, narrow wheels.  Imagine the precision and gentleness needed to transplant tender blades of grass without destroying them. 

As the days grew longer and hotter, the tiny green blades grew taller and thicker.  Soon the expanses of flooded fields became oceans of green.  During the day egrets and herons stalked through the blades, like white ships lost in a rippling green sea.  At night frogs sang from the swampy darkness.  I watch the growth of tadpoles to pollywogs to tiny frogs at the edges of the fields that I passed on my way to word. 

August became September without any change in the temperature.  But there was a change in the rice.  Instead of blades reaching straight to the sky, the heads were bent from the weight of young rice.  As the days imperceptibly shortened, the tiny grains of rice grew bigger.  The heads sagged, moving sluggishly in the gentle breeze where just months before they had danced at the slightest whisper of wind.  Their color changed too.  The bright, spring green had darkened in the summer sun but now had an almost yellow tint.  It was almost harvest time.

Unlike planting, which seemed to take months to get started, harvest moved quickly.  Whole swaths of plants disappeared in a day.  What had once been a sea of green reaching to the horizon was rapidly falling to a very unique combine.  This machine was more like a beetle, square and solid.  Its mandibles, sweeping the ground in front cut the rice in neat swaths.  The cut plants were then carefully laid on their side and fed up a conveyor to have their precious seeds removed.  The now stripped blades were then deposited behind the machine to be collected later.  The harvester moved in tight squares, working from the outside in, until there was nothing left but straw yellowing in the fall sun and bleached stubble protruding from the rich, brown earth like thin yellowish bones.

Now the air was filled with the smell of fall.  The straw was gathered into clumps to dry.  Hung or stacked, the soft smell of decomposing plant material wafted from the fields - like the smell that clings to your clothes after a day raking and playing in the leaf pile.  Mixed in, and eventually overpowering, is the smell of smoke.  Haze clung to the fields and valleys beyond as what is left from this year’s harvest is fired to return nutrients to the soil.  Despite the still warm days, visions of smores, hot coco, and hay rides floated around my brain as the smoke rose into the blue sky.

Finally, the soil was tilled one last time, turning under what was left of the rice plants, exposing the shallow, thick roots now reaching for the sky like sad, tiny fingers in a sad juxtaposition.  The weeds will return in time.  Perhaps there will be snow to cover the naked fields.  Then it will all start again next year.  The only difference is, I won’t be here to watch the rice grow.

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