Reflections on a whirlwind introduction to Japan

So, yesterday marked the two week anniversary of my arrival in Japan.  In that short time, I have truly fallen in love with this amazing country.  I have seen and experienced many things - some good, some not so good – but each one has only encouraged me to dig deeper into the mysteries of this place.

The first week and a half of my stay here was in a part of Osaka called Tanimachi. My company housed all of the newbies in a wonderful little hotel in the middle of a bustling downtown.   This is where I got my first taste of Japanese style transportation.  I’ll give you a hint, it’s walking.  Within the first day, my feet were covered in blisters and Band-Aids.  But at the same time, there was a sense of accomplishment (and dehydration).  I had not moved that much in a very long time.  There was also something thrilling about strolling down the street in a foreign country: the conversations of people passing by were in Japanese; everyone was dressed in their Cool Biz outfits of dark slacks, white, short-sleeved shirts, and neat ties; brightly lit store signs were in kanji and hiragana that I couldn’t even begin to read; it seemed as if even the familiar sights and sounds of a busy street were somehow new and different.

Within walking distance of the hotel I could reach a sizable mall, Osaka Castle and Park, a Kinkos, a half dozen Starbucks, a McDonalds, and a plethora of 7/11s.  There was no shortage of restaurants, either.  I was able to sample many regional specialties such as yakisoba, okonomiyaki, and real Japanese sushi.

 

Mmmm, tako sushi!

The food was truly amazing.  The flavors were so new, but even familiar foods, such as eating at McDonalds (yes, I caved once), made me realize something about Japan and its people.  While the menu at McDonalds had many familiar items, there were those items that were uniquely Japanese.  Somewhat sadly, I admit that I have frequented McDonalds all over the world.  In almost every single one, the menu is exactly what I would find in the State except for one or two specialty items.  In Japan, the McDonalds menu was something different.  While there were many American favorites, there were just as many Japanese specialties.  From burger choices to drink choices, each American favorite seemed to have an equally, if not more popular, Japanese counterpart.  Slowly, I began to realize that the Japanese people don’t just mimic the ways of other countries; they take those idea/dishes/traditions, and make them something new – foreign influence Japanese style.  Thankfully, though, they did not mess with the fries.

In all my travels, I have met some really amazing people.  I have chatted up complete strangers in a pub in Sterling, learned all about Australian Football from a bunch of friendly, dentally challenged rugby players in Brisbane, been plied with fresh cherries and other fruit by exuberant street merchants in Greece. I have shared food, drink, and good stories with people from all over the world, but I don’t know if I have ever met a people as polite, friendly, or helpful as the Japanese.  I think the phrases I have used the most, and heard the most in regular conversations, are excuse me, please, and thank you.  This overwhelming acceptance and kindness have been most evident in the neighborhood I moved into. 

First, let me tell you a little bit about Sunny House.  Sunny House is the name of the sharehouse I am currently calling home.  When it came time to find a place to live, I was very hesitant about living in an apartment by myself.  I have never really lived alone so the idea of doing it at almost 30 was a little daunting.  Add to that the fear and isolation of being in a foreign country.  I thought of all the things that might break me, renting an apartment would be the biggest and most likely.  So I found a sharehouse.  And boy did I get lucky!   I have a rather large set of rooms upstairs – about nine tatami mats worth of floor space – access to two kitchens, my own fridge, a washing machine, internet, and three wonderful women to share meals and experiences with.  Four if you count my landlady, who lives just across the alley from us.  While I have only been living here for a few days, it already feels like home.

One of the streets near my house.

Sunny House is in a residential community, so I have also acquired a set of friendly neighbors in my move.  It is the type of place where everyone says “ohayo gozaimu,” in the morning and “konbonwa,” in the evening.  It is also very near a mile long shopping street so my list of acquaintances gets longer and longer as I interact with the business owners and employees. 

This was taken very early in the morning.  During the regular day, this place is packed!

My first evening here was the community Bon celebration.  It was very similar to church or school carnivals with food, games for the kids, and lots of catching up.  I was immediately welcomed, taught how to fish for goldfish with a paper net, and shown the local shrine.  As the night wore on, we wandered from one small celebration to another, eating and drinking, talking, and having a great time.  I excelled at the games, beginners luck, and enjoyed the carnival atmosphere. 

I think the best part of the night, however, came when we stumbled upon a Bon Odori.  A tight oval of dancers stretched down the narrow street.  The women were dressed in bright yakutas.  There was one male dancer, an older gentleman dressed in royal blue.  The moves were simple, but with an elegance that reminded me of medieval court dancing.  As they moved slowly around the circle, the movements repeating over and over, I was given a glimpse of the understated beauty I hoped to find here. 

After watching for a few dances, I was encouraged to join in.  My movements were nowhere near as refined or beautiful, but I was encouraged and welcomed by everyone around me.  At one point, an older woman in a beautiful white and blue yukata took it upon herself to teach me and an eager group of four young girls a few of the more kid friendly dances.  I found out later, I was the first foreigner to dance with them and that they were honored by my presence.  Truly, I was the one who felt honored. 

I know this is a somewhat rosy view of Japanese daily life and society.  Not every day is a celebration and not every Japanese person is kind and welcoming to foreigners.  I know my warm reception is partly because of the Japanese sense of honor and hospitality, partly because of the community I moved into, and partly because of my own personality.  A good part of it is also luck that all of these things aligned, that I am in the right place at the right time.  Overall, though, I feel that the people of this country are genuinely kind, helpful, and friendly. 

I know there will be challenges in the coming months, once the shiny and new wears off and homesickness sets in.  Even now there are some things I find difficult to adjust to.  Like the ungodly heat and humidity.  Not actually knowing what to buy at the grocery store.  Picking up my bed every morning.  Not having the amount of privacy I was used to.  But I think the friends I have made here, both Japanese and foreign, will make the coming hurdles a lot easier to handle.  Like the old man who says good morning to me, in English, every morning, when we pass on my way to the subway.  It is all he has ever said to me.  Even so, it makes me smile every time.  

And this.  This is definitely a challenge.